Finally getting/making time to get out for a longer ride this year.
This ride should be around 1,700 miles / 2,700 kilometers and will cover Washington, Oregon, and a dip into Northern California.
I’ll be riding my 2017 Honda Africa Twin.
It’s been a few years (pre-covid) since I’ve done more than a few hundred miles so I knew I needed to get a long(ish) ride planned for this summer. It’s been so wonderful to be out riding each day and enjoying seeing so much nature.
Daily Breakdown:
Sept 19 (Thursday): Spokane, WA to Mt. Hood
- Lodging: Timberline Lodge (was the location for the movie, “The Shining”)
- Link to hotel site: https://www.timberlinelodge.com/lodge
The first day of a longer ride is always a little anxiety inducing with concerns of possible mechanical problems that I didn’t catch in maintenance checks, but the bike performed really well and the suspension updates have made for a much better ride.
The wind was out in force as usual along the Columbia River which makes for an exciting day.
Chatted at a rest stop with a guy who is on his way home (Seattle area) from about a 6,000 mile ride over 20 or so days. I miss those longer rides and will need to arrange for a longer ride next year.
Once I turned southwest at Hood River, OR the ride was beautiful and calm. The views of the mountain, streams, and forests made for a relaxing end to the day’s ride.
The road up to Timberline Lodge was twisty and a lot of fun. No dedicated motorcycle parking which I’ve begun to expect as the norm at National Park Lodges. I did manage to find a spot to park that didn’t consume an entire automobile parking spot.
The room here is small, but has a nice bed, bathroom with a shower. It is also clean and well maintained.
Sitting at the Ram Bar now enjoying a beverage and waiting on my dinner. Dinner was a shrimp/crab cake po’boy that was good. After dinner I wandered the trails beyond the lodge up the mountain for views south as the sun was beginning to set.
Up at 5am due to my upstairs neighbors deciding to get going and the old squeaky floors are loud. Not sure why the person/people actually need to walk around as much as they are, the rooms aren’t large. Oh well, at least I’ll see the sunrise.
Had a breakfast bar in my room and went into the common area for a coffee and was very surprised to find that it was delicious. Most hotels don’t make quality coffee a priority, but Timberline Lodge sure has! Very thankful for this start to the day.
The common area is really big and comfortable with a very high ceiling. The second floor above is where the Ram Bar Restaurant is located and where I had dinner on Thursday night.
The view from Mt. Hood looking south was as awe inspiring as it was at sunset the night before. Based on me looking at the map on my phone the mountain in the distance is Mount Jefferson. I’m sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. (Thank you!)
It is still around 40F so I’ll get my gear ready to go and it should be 45F in the next 30 minutes…well, after one more cup of coffee. It was not yet 45F when I left, but by the time I was 20 minutes into my ride and off of the mountain it was 50F and much more comfortable.
Sept 20 (Friday): Mt. Hood, OR to Coos Bay, OR
After the delicious cups of coffee at the Timberline Lodge common area I loaded up the bike and drove down the mountain and into the forests along well maintained forest roads heading southwest towards the coast.
The route for today:
About 10 miles from the main highway there was a construction sign alerting travelers that there could be a 2-3 hour delay. Well, based on where I was in forest road network there weren’t many options to re-route so I continued forward hoping that it wouldn’t be that long of a delay.
When I pulled up the flag person stated that it would be another 1.5 hours so I was checking some smaller roads that I noticed a few miles back since I didn’t want to go back 20-30 miles and then go south which would extend my ride by a couple of hours. Three motorcycles pulled about 20 minutes after I arrived along with some other vehicles behind them. They were also a bit shocked that the construction wasn’t on any of our apps or even the Oregon traffic site (I heard the guys behind me say that).
However, a few minutes after they arrived we were told that we could go through due to a halt in the work being done. That was the best news all day!
The area under construction turned out to be just a short distance, but it was pretty rough so I hope the guys on their low Harleys made it through without any trouble. My Africa Twin sits high and has off-road-ish tires so I was good to go.
After that I continued on my journey and for lunch around 2pm I found a nice spot on the outskirts of Corvallis, OR called “Timber Towne Coffee”. Had a delicious egg/cheese sandwich that came with some grapes along with a coffee.
From there I went to Newport, OR and cut south along the 101. Traffic wasn’t too bad and the usual suspects (see stats below) caused me the usual frustrations with their ability to tailgate and want to be first even though I can only ride as fast as the vehicle in front of me allows. I ended up pulling off to the side a few times to let them pass and to tailgate someone else.
The wind began to pick up late afternoon and by the time I ended my day here near Coos Bay, OR it’s quite strong. The place where I’m staying is somewhat exposed so I aimed the bike into the wind as much as possible and made sure my kickstand is on the little platform I purchased for it when I needed to park in gravel/dirt.
I’ll load a few more photos when I go through my GoPro captures later tonight or later on the ride.
When I awoke the new day was calm and I even slept in a little, which I don’t get much opportunity to do at home due to Theo’s medication schedule in an attempt to control his epilepsy.
The Airstream had freshly ground coffee and a pour-over kit that produced some rich and delicious coffee. I enjoyed this in the sitting area outside of the RV and the lack of wind gusts was appreciated.
Sept 21 (Saturday): Coos Bay, OR to Crescent City, CA and Jedediah Smith State Park Area
Today’s ride was much shorter than the past two days at around 137 miles.
The ride along the coast from Coos Bay, OR to Crescent City, CA was beautiful with innumerable views of the Pacific Ocean. The rugged landscape and salt water mist rose up from the coastline and created a magical day for riding.
Traffic was light and everyone behaved themselves. It’s always a good day when there’s no tailgating or dangerous speeding.
Pulled into Crescent City, CA around 2pm and had some lunch before checking-in to my accommodations for the next two nights. I had a tasty lunch of fish tacos and French fries at The Chart House and would recommend the establishment if you find yourself in this part of the country.
After check-in and unloading my gear I rode northeast for ten miles to Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park and wandered around the trails enjoying the quiet that these trees provide.
While the temperature was around 70F it felt warmer due to the humidity level. It wasn’t uncomfortable, but in Spokane, WA we have very low humidity levels so even some feels like a lot.
I found a nice old bench and listened to the birds sing their songs amongst these giants. Below is that bench memorializing the person after which the trail I was walking was named.
After this walk and bench sitting I rode the highway running through the park and enjoyed the twisty roads.
Sept 22 (Sunday): Crescent City, CA Area to Eureka, CA
Not a good rest last night due to the paper thin walls at this Best Western hotel. Fairly disappointing for the money paid each night, but I’ll be sure to wear earplugs this evening.
In general the hotel is fine, bed is comfortable and the water pressure is decent in the shower. I just wish I couldn’t hear every sound from above and to the sides of my room.
Rode south to Redwood NP which I visited years ago, took a dirt road up the mountain which was a lot of fun! I took some video on the way up/down the dirt road and will have to go through that when I get home.
I then rode a bit farther south and and walked through the Lady Bird Johnson grove. This old growth forest is so incredible/ awe inspiring.
Was chatting with the couple who had parked next to me and it turns out the guy lived in my hometown during college and lived near where I lived right before I went into the Army. Sure is a small world.
One thing that traveling alone makes me do is to talk with former strangers and find those connections that we all have.
Shoulder season is the perfect time to travel. Very few families = more quiet walks and enjoyment. Kids are great and all, but silence is golden.
From there I rode south to Eureka, CA where I had lunch at Lost Coast Brewery. The one problem with riding motorcycles is stopping at a brewery and leaving half of my beer. Safety first.
On the way back to Crescent City traffic suddenly stopped a few vehicles ahead of me. Turns out it was a tree that had rolled down the hill and thankfully no cars were hit. What was really heartwarming is that we all pulled over, got out and the six or so of us cleaned up the highway quickly and we were all back on our respective ways in minute or two.
When I returned to the hotel there was a BMW GS12xx parked near my room and as I was unloading my gear to repack for tomorrow the person who owns it came out of his room so he and I, then a third motorcyclist walked up and we all chatted for about 45 minutes. We talked a bout our favorite rides over the years, what we do/do not like about our bikes, etc. … the usual conversations anyone who has a hobby discusses.
Tomorrow will be a longer day through the Sierra Nevadas on some small highways with lots of curvy roads as I head toward Ashland, OR.
Sept 23 (Monday): Crescent City, CA to Ashland, OR
Began this Monday morning chatting with my neighbor on the GS 12xx motorcycle as we were loading up our bikes for our rides. He was heading south on his way home to the Bay Area and me northeast into the mountains.
I was on the road a little earlier in the morning due to the expected warm weather for today. The ride also went through some areas that were burned in some fires over the previous years, but nature had already begun to renew the landscape.
At one point as I drew closer to Happy Camp, CA it was about 95F and since it was around noon I figured it was time for some food and air conditioning. The only restaurant in the town of 680 residents is a little pizza joint that made a very delicious pizza. I’m glad I arrived when I did because there was a pretty decent lunch crowd in this village.
After cooling down I was on the road again and quite a few times there were construction stops and wait time due to the roads being restricted to one lane. Thankfully those delays didn’t keep me sitting for too long in the hot sun.
I eventually turned off of the main road, which turned into gravel and then poorly maintained dirt roads. This lasted for about two hours and I was happy to get back to pavement again to get my speeds up from 20-25 to 50-60.
In Ashland, OR now cooling down and going to see what’s nearby for a tasty beverage.
Sept 24(Tuesday): Ashland, or to Redmond, OR
Not a long day today, but a warm one on this penultimate ride day.
Chatted with a couple from Oakland, CA as I was loading up my motorcycle and we were discussing how much we like Ashland’s downtown area. So many good restaurants, theaters, the Shakespeare Festival every year, the pubs, and the animals wandering around. I saw deer both days as I was walking near the hotel walking across the street. The couple had two dogs with them and I was saying how much I miss my good boy, but that I would be home in 48 hours.
I headed southeast from Ashland, OR this morning towards Klamath Falls, OR as that was another city I had yet to ride through. This ride as I go through smaller towns I put in the city name as a stop so that it forces me to ride through a town and get an idea of what it’s like instead of riding by on a highway and seeing nothing notable.
Klamath Falls has a large lake nearby which enhanced its charm, but I didn’t see a vibrant downtown in which to stop and grab breakfast so I just kept riding. I took one fuel stop and one quick stop to clean my helmet’s visor and sunglasses after being bombarded with various insects (sorry insects!).
In Bend, OR I had to stop and visit the last Blockbuster Video. It still holds some nostalgia for me since it and other similar stores were such a large part of our generation’s core memory.
From there I rode about 30 minutes farther to Redmond, OR where I’m staying a great hotel downtown. It was build in the early 1900s and turns out that it’s one of Oregon’s haunted places. We’ll see if that’s true…I hope they’re nice ghosts!
Downtown is nice and I’ve wandered around a bit after a quick shower to clean up after that sweaty ride today. Had a delicious burrito (combo breakfast and lunch since I only had a coffee and small bar when I awoke) at Two Brother’s Tacos and picked up some truffles at a candy shop next to the hotel. Feeling much better and am happy that tomorrow will be a little cooler.
Tonight I’ll see what’s going on downtown, but other than a tasty beverage I think it’ll be an early night so I can get home to my best buddy, Theo! (My dog).
Visited Cascade Lakes Brewery (8 minute walk from the hotel) based on the recommendation of a good friend and it did not disappoint. Ordered the 20 Inch Brown Beer (her favorite) and it was quite tasty!
My gear is packed and I’m ready for the 6 hour ride home tomorrow!!
Sept 25 (Wednesday): Ride to Spokane, WA
The final day was the longest leg of the journey with a few more miles than the first. Always such a sad/happy feeling to be wrapping up the ride and the time off.
Had a delicious cup of coffee, a breakfast bar and it was time to get going! It’s been nice to sleep in a bit the last week and start each day more slowly than usual.
The ride was fairly uneventful until I got back on the I-84 heading east back to Spokane and traffic was faster and heavier. In Tri-Cities (Pasco, Kennewick, Richland), WA the main bridge is under construction with traffic backed up, but thankfully I was able to exit and take the surface streets to the other bridge and keep moving since it was 90F.
As I got closer to Ritzville, WA the storms that had been gradually getting closer were looking darker and ominous. After filling up one last time there I was able to make it home to Spokane, WA about 20 minutes before the storm hit.
Back home with my good boy!!
Sept 26 … work
Back to it.
Ride stats: (so far…will finalize when I get home)
- Brand of car that tried to kill me the most: Dodge Ram trucks – still the champions
- Type of car that tailgated me the most: So far… Dodge Ram trucks…nope! Jeeps took over that title as of today (9/24) from a few yesterday and then some today. Why tailgate when the person in front of you cannot go faster than the person in front of them? I just pulled over and let them race up to the next person. Gives me a moment to relax and to send hope into the universe that people who tailgate will someday realize that they’re not being good humans or safe drivers.
- Type of car that wanted to be in front of EVERYONE: So far… VW Golf (repeat of some former years)
- Type of motorcycle rider who was not friendly when passing (usual cyclist wave): Everyone has been great so far!
- Worst drivers: Oregon on the I-84. Other than that stretch of road drivers have been quite pleasant.
- Most dangerous road: The I-84 along the Columbia River from WA to when I turned south at Hood River, OR
- Fastest road: I-84
- Slowest roads: Oregon Skyline Rd from Highway 26 to Highway 22
- Highest percentage of bad roads: Highway 101 in Southern Oregon
- Highest percentage of good roads: OR
- Windiest state while driving: Oregon so far…taken over by Washington the final day of the ride
- Most birds killed: Thankfully none, but one sure got close
- Most bee stings: No bee sting today (Sunday), but a little honey bee flew into my helmet and was walking on the inside of my sunglasses. Thankfully it was a chill little one and flew off when I pulled over.
- Most rain: No rain 🙁
- Most hail: No hail 🙂
- Most powerful storm driven through: No storms
- Coldest temps: 41F at Timberline Lodge, Mt. Hood, OR
- Hottest temps: California near Happy Camp. My bike’s temperature read 100F. Not the hottest temps I’ve ridden in, but still quite warm.
- State with most bugs hitting the bike: Oregon
- Favorite city: Ashland, OR
- City at the bottom of the list: Brookings, OR
- Favorite meal location: The Chart House in Crescent City, CA (so far) although the pizza in Happy Camp, CA was very good. The burrito I had at Two Brother’s Tacos in Redmond was very good AND they had some delicious and spicy/hot salsas.
- Most comfortable bed/or place slept: SCP Redmond Hotel in Redmond, OR – some years this is my hammock, but I felt like treating/pampering a bit this ride.
- Favorite camping spot/motel/hotel: SCP Redmond Hotel, Redmond, OR